Friday 24 August 2012

This week in Santiago - how do the pilgrims get here?

Hola

Another busy week has just flown past. It has been very hot. Thundery weather. What the Spanish call "bochorno". The people of Galicia aren't used to temperatures in the 30's and not being able to sleep because of the heat. The staff of the office have been complaining of tiredness - and not just because of the heat. A steady 12 - 1400 pilgrims per day have been arriving this week and in the last 7 days 10,966 pilgrims have arrived. Last Friday Amigos Jim from Ireland and Roy from Bolton (on the Left) in England said goodbye to Betty and Dugald (on the right) and have been working hard every day  welcoming pilgrims and answering their questions.

Maybe because it has been so hot and we are now in the busiest time of the year the staff of the office have a number of competitions going... for example who has written the strangest name on a Compostela? We've also been listing the ways in which pilgrims get here. Of course the majority come on foot but others use wheelchairs, horses, bicycles and a great array of machines and gadgets. Here is what we have listed. Have you seen any others?  















Friday 17 August 2012

This week in Santiago - lots of pilgrims but still time for prayer

"More pilgrims in 6 days than in a third of July"   

Thus screamed the newspaper headlines. The number they are talking about is the 11,201 pilgrims who have arrived since I last posted. At times it has been very busy, but no more so than usual at this time of year. Newspaper hyperbole apart, the August rush is well under way. As you can see pilgrims are still overjoyed at their arrival and although they say there have been queues at some albergues there have been beds available on all of the routes.
Santiago has been busy with visitors particularly this week because of the Feast of the Assumption on the 15th and the Feast of San Roque yesterday. On the 15th the cathedral was packed as people streamed in for the Solemn Mass of the Feast which began with a procession accompanied by the Cathedral choir and medieval musical instruments the chimirias. They continued to play as the great botifumeiro swung at the start of the Mass.  If you wish to hear them click here 

In August more groups arrive than in any other month of the year and so far we have had: scout groups, girl guides, youth groups, church groups, seminarians, pensioners clubs and a large group of the children of soldiers serving in the Spanish army (below).
It is busy but there is always room for one more. Still room for the lone pilgrim who arrives in the square and mounts the steps to the Pilgrims' Office. Still room for moments of individual joy and reflection on a journey well made.
It was a privilege for us to meet Roswitha who had walked from her home in Germany to Santiago, 10 times the distance of many pilgrims. When we asked her what her Camino had meant to her she reached into her rucksack and presented us with a piece of paper. "This says it all for me" she said. We've tried to translate it...and maybe it does say it all:

Pilgrim, do not look back, do not turn around
For that would discourage you.
Instead look to the road in front of you where I am calling you.

Do not think about how far away the goal is and how little you travel walking each step.
Instead live each step. I am walking with you.

Throw out everything you don't need, don't carry extra weight
Throw out all your cares and everything that worries you
Let go and travel light. I will give you everything you need.

Don't compare yourself to others as you go. Find your own rhythm as you continue onward. 
I love you as you are.

Follow the road carefully so that you can see the signs that will lead you in the right direction
I will guide you.

Be cautious of taking shortcuts as they may turn out to make the journey longer.
I am the Way.  

But if you make a mistake and take a wrong turning do not lose heart these things are also part of your journey. I am always by your side.

When you are tired or stumble do not be afraid. Get up again.
I will hold you.

Do not look down at your feet all the time trying to avoid obstacles. Look up and admire the beauty all around you. I will keep you safe.

Accept all that happens to you on the road; bad weather, hunger and thirst, illness, unpleasant people...your own weaknesses. I am your goal.

Take time to give thanks, but do not waste time. Use every opportunity to praise, to sing, to dance and to celebrate. When you do this, I love you.

Friday 10 August 2012

Pilgrims large and small - a week in Santiago

The three belles - Mari with Susan and Angela
Since my last post on 1 August temperatures have soared in Santiago. In the last few days we have experienced sweltering heat of 36 degrees. Pilgrim numbers have soared too and since I last wrote over 11,000 pilgrims have arrived at the Pilgrims' Office. 
Amigos Angela and Susan were bid a fond farewell by Mari one of the coordinators of the Pilgrims' Office in the cloister of the cathedral. In their 2 week tour of duty they welcomed over 17,000 pilgrims. Then of course the August rush began just as Dugald and Betty arrived to don their blue T shirts. They had spent the previous 2 weeks as hospitaleros at the albergue in Rabanal and over the last few days they have surprised pilgrims who slept at the albergue by  also being in Santiago at the head of the queue to welcome them in Santiago!
Traditionally Spanish people take their holidays during August and therefore it was no surprise that the first of these who started in Cebreiro or Sarria are now arriving. This morning when we arrived at the office a long queue had already formed. Antonio from Valencia who had walked from O Cebreiro was first in the queue. "I've been waiting since 6am" he said with a broad smile. Nothing could quench his delight in finally getting his Compostela.
This week has also seen many groups arriving. A huge group of young people from Spain, France and Portugal arrived on a walking pilgrimage organised by the religious order the Claretianos. In bright t shirts they sang their way up the stairs of the Pilgrims Office. We enjoyed their singing but we were glad when the last one left. However soon we were regaled again as they repeated their repertoire from the Cathedral steps in the Plaza Praterias.
A smaller and altogether more poignant group was the Japanese contingent who arrived having walked from Leon. These were representatives of the Amigos of the Camino de Santiago in Japan who were walking with young people they had brought from the area devastated by the terrible earthquakes last year    
As the queue of pilgrims snakes into the Office we never know who is going arrive. "What does that word mean?" I asked the older man who had just filled in his occupation on the form. "It means "Bishop" in French. I'm 84 and glad to be here." He beamed having walked from Sarria. Standing beside him was a girl in her early 20's. She looked brown and fit and had that glow that long distance pilgrims exude. I glanced at her credencial. She had started walking from her home in Holland. The Bishop and the lassie shook hands and congratulated each other. Old and young, long distance and short, two bound by the bond of the pilgrimage.
The broadest smiles were enjoyed by two families from Brussels who started in Irun on the Camino del Norte.  11 of them in total, there were only three adults, the rest were their children aged from 12 down to 2 months. We were all agreed that the mother deserved the biggest Compostela of all!

Wednesday 1 August 2012

100,000th Pilgrim arrives – all the numbers from Santiago

Yesterday around 4pm an unsuspecting group of pilgrims arrived at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago. A French family called Béjamin, who had walked from Ponte de Lima on the Camino Portugúes, took pilgrim numbers through the 100,000 mark. Mum, dad and three sons were delighted to have arrived in Santiago and a group of pilgrims in the courtyard cheered in celebration  
 The arrival of the Béjamin family continues the trend of increased numbers. By close of play yesterday 100,267 pilgrims had arrived since 1 January 2012. This compares to 94,518 for the same period last year. This 6% increase is very much in line with previous increases. The big increases however are seen in the English speaking countries where the remarkable rate of growth continues.
  
Country
2009
2010
2011
2012
 Growth
Australia
529
624
652
932
43%
Canada
1093
981
1116
1448
3%
Ireland
1144
1365
1413
2293
62%
South Africa
157
161
272
424
56%
United Kingdom
942
1085
1149
1950
70%
United States
1573
2021
2234
3978
78%
New Zealand
109
129
126
189
50%


Total number of  pilgrims from 1 January 2012 to 31 July 2012:        100.267 

Country                                                     
Number of pilgrims
Spain
47995 (47,87%)
Germany
8891 (8,87%)
Portugal
5980 (5,96%)
Italy
5376 (5,36%)
France
4465 (4,45%)
United States
3978 (3,97%)
Ireland
2293 (2,29%)
United Kingdom
1950 (1,94%)
Holland
1885 (1,88%)
Canadá
1448 (1,44%)
Korea
1281 (1,28%)
Brasil
1246 (1,24%)
Poland                                                              
1078 (1,08%)
Austria                                                              
1075 (1,07%)
Bélgium
1032 (1,03%)
Australia
932 (0,93%)
Denmark
930 (0,93%)
Switzerland
780 (0,78%)
Sweden
749 (0,75%)
México
573 (0,57%)
Norway
540 (0,54%)
Japan
520 (0,52%)
Finland
475 (0,47%)
Czek Republic
435 (0,43%)
South Africa 
424 (0,42%)
Argentina 
419 (0,42%)
Hungary
397 (0,40%)
Russia 
249 (0,25%)
S.lovakia
241 (0,24%)
Colombia
220 (0,22%)
Slovenia 
216 (0,22%)
Venezuela 
214 (0,21%)
New Zealand
189 (0,19%)
Rumania
126 (0,13%)
China
109 (0,11%)
Chile
104 (0,10%)
Lituania
98 (0,10%)
Ecuador
93 (0,09%)
Bulgaria
84 (0,08%)
Uruguay
80 (0,08%)
Puerto Rico
75 (0,07%)
Perú
71 (0,07%)
Estonia
62 (0,06%)
Andorra
62 (0,06%)
Israel
53 (0,05%)
Croacia
43 (0,04%)
Filipinas
42 (0,04%)
Ucrania
41 (0,04%)
Grecia
39 (0,04%)
Luxemburgo
33 (0,03%)
Costa Rica
30 (0,03%)
Malta 30
30 (0,03%)

Gender   
Number of pilgrims
Men 
56681 (56,53%)
Women
43586 (43,47%)


Mode of tranport
Number of pilgrims
On foot
85635 (85,41%)
Bicycle
14308 (14,27%)
Horseback
303 (0,30%)
Wheelchair
21 (0,02%)


Reason for pilgrimage 
Number of pilgrims
Religious and spiritual reasons
51873 (51,73%)
Religious reasons 
42589 (42,48%)
Culture or tourism
5805 (5,79%)


Starting point
Number of pilgrims
Sarria
21020 (20,96%)
S. Jean P. Port
11075 (11,05%)
León
5284 (5,27%)
Cebreiro
5186 (5,17%)
Oporto
4411 (4,40%)
Roncesvalles
4404 (4,39%)
Tui
4225 (4,21%)
Ponferrada
3725 (3,72%)
Astorga
3169 (3,16%)
Pamplona
2213 (2,21%)
Burgos
2081 (2,08%)
Resto Portugal
1901 (1,90%)
Le Puy
1870 (1,87%)
Oviedo - C.P.
1835 (1,83%)
Valença do Minho
1816 (1,81%)
Ferrol
1609 (1,60%)
Sevilla
1542 (1,54%)
Irun
1404 (1,40%)
Vilafranca
1384 (1,38%)
Ourense
1323 (1,32%)
Francia
1150 (1,15%)
Triacastela
1021 (1,02%)
Lugo - C.P.
758 (0,76%)
Samos
709 (0,71%)
Resto C. León
667 (0,67%)
Resto Asturias
573 (0,57%)
Lisboa
565 (0,56%)
Ribadeo
555 (0,55%)
Holanda
529 (0,53%)
Santander
505 (0,50%)
Vilalba
482 (0,48%)
Logroño
476 (0,47%)
Ponte de Lima
463 (0,46%)
Bilbao
420 (0,42%)
Somport
375 (0,37%)
Oviedo
355 (0,35%)
Alemania
334 (0,33%)
Gijón
324 (0,32%)
Salamanca
303 (0,30%)
Zamora
262 (0,26%)
Madrid - C.F.
254 (0,25%)
Avilés
249 (0,25%)
Mondoñedo
235 (0,23%)
Bélgica
230 (0,23%)
Sahagún
218 (0,22%)
Vega de Valcarce
212 (0,21%)
Puebla de Sanabria
208 (0,21%)
Cháves-Portugal
204 (0,20%)
Resto País Vasco
188 (0,19%)
Muxía
173 (0,17%)
Resto Asturias - C.P.
171 (0,17%)
Baamonde
170 (0,17%)
Braga
168 (0,17%)
Jaca
165 (0,16%)
Suiza
155 (0,15%)
Frómista
151 (0,15%)
Gudiña
145 (0,14%)
San Sebastián
139 (0,14%)
Lourdes
136 (0,14%)
Neda
133 (0,13%)
A Guarda
130 (0,13%)
Resto Cantabria
121 (0,12%)
Porriño
118 (0,12%)
Vezelay
116 (0,12%)
Laza
101 (0,10%)
Fonsagrada - C.P.
101 (0,10%)
Arles
100 (0,10%)
Carrión de los Condes 
99 (0,10
Sto. Domingo de la Calzada
96 (0,10%)
Rates, S. Pedro
96 (0,10%)
Resto Andalucía
95 (0,09%)
Puente la Reina
93 (0,09%)
Lourenzá
87 (0,09%)
Allariz
86 (0,09%)
Valencia
84 (0,08%)
Cataluña
82 (0,08%)
Granja de Moreruela
81 (0,08%)
Rabanal del Camino
80 (0,08%)
Montserrat
78 (0,08%)
Mérida
77 (0,08%)
Xunqueira de Ambía
76 (0,08%)
Resto C. León - V.P.
76 (0,08%)
Francia
72 (0,07%)


Professión  
Number of pilgrims
Employed
21639 (21,58%)
Students
19406 (19,35%)
Retired
13150 (13,11%)
Técnicos
12532 (12,50%)
Self employed
9729 (9,70%)
Teachers
7715 (7,69%)
Civil servants
4740 (4,73%)
Manual workers
3255 (3,25%)
Unemployed
2668 (2,66%)
Housewives
2418 (2,41%)
Directors
915 (0,91%)
Artists
702 (0,70%)
Priests
589 (0,59%)
Farm workers
315 (0,31%)
Religious
260 (0,26%)
Sailors
119 (0,12%)
Sportspeople
102 (0,10%)
Oikoten
13 (0,01%)


Age range
Number of pilgrims
30 - 60
55259 (55,11%)
< 30
28502 (28,43%)
> 60
16506 (16,46%)
Route
Number of pilgrims
Frances-Camino de
69626 (69,44%)
Portugues-Camino
14209 (14,17%)
Norte-Camino de
6165 (6,15%)
Vía de la Plata
5022 (5,01%)
Primitivo-Camino
3021 (3,01%)
Ingles-Camino
1748 (1,74%)
Otros caminos
258 (0,26%)
Muxía-Finisterre
218 (0,22%)