The Camino – a life affirming experience

Johnnie Walker hard at work

I’m very lucky. I love working with pilgrims here in Santiago, hearing their stories and seeing their joy on arrival. I also like writing guides to some of the shorter routes such as the Camino Inglés. Many pilgrims send me information for the guides which helps keep them up to date for other pilgrims. They also write about the things which happen to them along the way. Here is a small selection. I’ve edited some bits and removed the names. I find them inspiring. I hope you do too:

Dear John,

A few weeks ago already since I finished the Ingles -- I'm trying to keep it all fresh!
I'm glad I got to meet you and talk briefly when I got my Compostela.  The group at the office, by the way, seemed particularly warm and friendly.  I didn't realize at the time that I must have hit the first group of Amigos, but it was lovely to be greeted in such a nice way.  Please pass along my thanks.Before I forget, I have a few little notes on the route that may be useful.

The promenade leading to the albergue at Neda

I stayed in Ferrol at El Cairo.  The owners were quiet but friendly.  Eating out alone in Spain can be uncomfortable sometimes, but I had a good supper at the pizzaria next door and felt quite comfortable.

The promenade route into Neda seems to split into several paths, and somehow I missed the waymarks leading to the pedestrian bridge.  

The hospitaleiro at Pontedeume albergue was a friendly and helpful fellow, and wouldn't even let me make a donation.  He says he's there at 7:30 til 9:30 to let people in.  

The next day was a hungry one (actually it was cold, wet, hungry, and exhausting, but thanks to the beautiful camino and some lovely and incredibly fun fellow peregrinos, it was a fabulous day overall).  Bar Julia was open for coffee but didn't have any food.

Carmen and Benino (hospitaleros in Hospital de Bruma) were terrific, and made sure I got fed. 

Speaking of food, Bar Cruzeiro was closed the next day.  I got coffee at Bar Novo, and should have had the foresight to ask if they could make me a bocadillo.  But what a treat at Hostal Miraz!  I want to eat there everyday. The mass times in Sigueiro have changed from what is in the guide.  I arrived when Mass was almost over, and thus was a little sheepish asking for a sello, but they could not have been more welcoming.

I got a little confused getting into Santiago.  I couldn't find the waymark across from the Bar Garcia Lorca, and turned to the left instead of crossing into the park with the arches.  I was rescued by a woman in a highrise shouting at me from her window and waving her hands in the opposite direction.  

This was just one of so many times on this little camino that kind strangers went out of their way to help me out.  I have rarely in my life felt so blessed as I did in those five days.  Thanks again for all of your help with the guide and your encouragement.  
Buen camino, with best wishes,A pilgrim

View from the Camino outside of Ferrol 

Dear John

Here are some notes from our recent Camino...

...When we reached this point we were absolutely drenched and dripping having walked for a couple of hours in persistent rain and hail. As we really only wanted some respite from the rain and a coffee we decided to try the Café Vilar a few doors up as it did look a bit more inviting and does have a pilgrim sign outside. I ordered and paid for our coffees and took the opportunity to get our passports stamped before taking our coffees to a table out of the way. I know I felt thoroughly wet and miserable and so did my friend as we hunched over our drinks. After a few minutes we heard a voice behind us in broken English saying “you like” we turned round and the lady behind the bar had brought each of a plate of bacon and egg on toast. It was such a kind gesture and never has bacon and egg tasted so good. It really lifted our spirits and amazingly once we’d left the bar, the weather improved for a couple of hours and we were able to press on. Earlier in the week we had been told that originally pilgrims had the right to ask the locals for food and drink and they had to supply it. I had not expected that in the 21st century we would still be on the receiving end of such kindness, especially unasked for. I know we were probably out of season, and it wouldn’t happen as a matter of course, I also suspect that as we are two ladies of a certain age (I’m 54 and my friend is 67) we probably elicit a different response than others might but I will always remember that gesture.

Walking the Camino was an experience I know we’ll talk about for many years. It is definitely an achievement that we’re proud of, it was certainly a hard earned Compostella for us. However, more than that it was also a reminder of the general goodness of people. We met so many friendly people along our way, they filled us up with water; showed us the way when we looked lost (even physically walking with us to show us on two occasions); took care of the dog that followed us for 2kms; fed us when we looked in need; chatted to us because they wanted to practice their English (even if we were sitting at the side of road replacing plasters and changing socks) offered translations when our Spanish fell as short as the waiters English; and generally wished us a buen viaje. 

Best wishes

Two peregrinas

My favourite spot for lunch on the Camino Ingles

Hola John

Just wanted to say thanks so much for the guide - completely invaluable on my recent walk (I don't know how people manage it using the waymarks alone!). In fact my guide came in very handy for several other guideless pilgrims when the waymarks seemed to peter out as the route enters the outskirts of Santiago by the café bar Poligono!  There was only one bit where I managed to get lost through the first forested path between Poulo and Segueiro where I must have missed the waymark after the kerb of granite blocks - I kept going in what I hoped was vaguely the right direction and ended up in an unmarked (and apparently uninhabited!) hamlet where a kindly farmer on a tractor got me back on the right path through a series of hand signals (my phrasebook Spanish improved infinitely over the week!). Maybe it was the scorching sun, or maybe it was having already walked several km out of my way that day, but I have to say, that long straight forested section that follows shortly after feels a lot longer than 4 km!
 
I also met some wonderful people along the way, which helped alleviate my aching feet and back. At the end of the first day, feeling a bit bedraggled and despondent having realised that I had packed way too much stuff and my feet were already hurting(!), I asked some people outside the cafe bar by the O Burro Bridge for directions to the hotel (didn't see the big sign behind me!) and they took me in, bought me a beer, ran me a bath and cooked me tea! They also pointed out a shortcut avoiding Cambre taking the river path opposite the hotel and turning right till you reach the waymarked path shortly after the cafe bar Meson Vasco. I must have still been looking a bit lost and forlorn the next day though as a friendly cyclist on his way back to Carral walked me the whole of the second leg of my journey and also insisted on cooking me lunch at the end! And that was apart from the other pilgrims (Spanish and English) whom I had the pleasure of encountering along the way.
 
All in all a wonderfully life-affirming experience!
 
Many thanks again!
 
A pilgrim

Walking every route

You know the feeling. You have arrived in Santiago after your pilgrimage. The friends you met on the camino have dispersed. Some have gone for flights home. Others have set off walking to Finisterre and Muxía. You are on your own and having visited the main churches and museums there isn’t a lot to do. Sometimes just sitting around taking in the atmosphere of Santiago is satisfaction enough. Sometimes though pilgrims wish they were still walking and their minds turn to what their next camino might be. I’ve certainly had this experience and over the last few weeks on my day off I have been exploring how to walk the last, or the last couple of stages of the main routes to Santiago. I’ve discovered that they are accessible by public transport and make an excellent one day walk. You don't need a guide book for the routes as they are all very well waymarked. I’ve also discovered there are other spectacular walks in and around Santiago which I will tell you more about in future.

Walking on the Camino Portuguese

This is simplicity itself. Get on your gear and take the train from Santiago to Pontevedra. This is a very beautiful medieval city which is worth exploring. Come on a Sunday and hear me playing the organ there! The route is well waymarked and you can walk the stage to Caldas de Reis – a distance of approximately 23 kms. There are regular buses back to Santiago from Caldas de Reis.

Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis:

Train or Bus to Pontevedra // 23 kms walk to Caldas // Bus back from Caldas

A second very accessible option is to walk from Caldas de Reis to Padrón. This stage is described by some as amongst the most beautiful of the whole route.  It starts in Caldas which is famed for its thermal baths which boast healing qualities. There is a public footbath for pilgrims. This stage is 19 kms.

Caldas de Reis to Padrón:

Bus from Santiago to Caldas de Reis // walk to 19 kms to Padrón // Train or bus back from Padrón

Finally on the Camino Portuguese is the last stage from Padrón to Santiago. The starting point is Padrón train station which is only a 20 train ride from Santiago. Simply turn Right on the platform alight onto (opposite the hotel) and walk straight ahead until you come to the church and the yellow arrows start. Or detour into town to try the famous pimientos de  Padrón.  Walk all the way back to your hostel in Santiago!
Padrón to Santiago: Train to Padrón // walk 19 kms back to Santiago

Exploring the Camino Francés

The odds are that you will have walked the Camino Francés and you may not want to go back to it. But I loved walking out to Lavacolla experiencing a constant stream of pilgrims coming towards me, then walking back with them into the city, passing through Monte de Gozo on the way. If one of your loved ones has come out to meet you in Santiago you might tempt them to experience a bit of the camino by walking this route with you. It is 20 kms in total.

Santiago to Lavacolla to Santiago: walking all the way

What about the Camino Inglés?

Some people find the final stage of this route into Santiago a bit disappointing compared to the others. I don’t and I am amazed at how near the route brings us to the city by way of forest and country paths before urban walking begins. The traditional last stage begins in Sigüeiro which is 17 kms from the Cathedral in Santiago. You get there by bus. I’ve discovered however that the same bus goes on to Deixebre which is near the route. If you take this option you will add 5 kms of beautiful country and forest walking to your day. If starting at Deixebre ask the bus to stop at the church. Turn Right i.e. with the church on your Left and walk along this road (with a coloured pavement in places) until you come to a bus shelter on your Right after approximately 1 km. Turn Right and follow the arrows.

Deixebre (or Sigüeiro) to Santiago:

Bus to Deixebre/Sigüeiro // walk back 22 or 17 kms to Santiago

The Via de la Plata

This was my first route and retains a special place in my heart. The Camino Levante amongst others joins this route as it makes its way to Santiago. I very much enjoyed going back to the little village of Ponte Ulla to walk the 22 kms back home. Since I had last been there they have built a new bridge for the high speed train the AVE. It dominates the valley. In a strange way though I think it and the old bridge which now sits in its shadow enhance the character of the scene. Plenty of cardiovascular exercise today!

Ponte Ulla to Santiago

Bus to Bus to Ponte Ulla // walk back to Santiago

Bus and train timetables.
All of these suggested starting and finishing points are easily accessible by train or bus from Santiago:
http://horarios.monbus.es/

http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/index.html

Buen Camino

John

English breakfast

I love being in Spain and I particularly like to walk the routes less travelled such as the Camino Inglés. I can understand the attraction of the busy Camino Francés but these days perhaps it is a little too commercialised including cafés advertising English Breakfasts as if the medieval pilgrimage route was on the Costa del Sol or the South Coast of England. I prefer a quiet way with homemade Spanish food in the evenings. So when I saw a week free in my diary and a flight to Santiago for £36 I couldn’t resist.

But I had some choices to make: Should I walk the Camino Inglés to up-date the Guide book ready for next year? In the time available should I walk from A Coruña in 4 days or Ferrol in 5 days? Or should I stay in Santiago and help out in the Pilgrims’ Office with the surge of pilgrims expected for the Pope’s recent visit. Two e mails made up my mind. First was a prescient note from Mari in the Office saying that numbers in the start of the week leading up to the Pope’s visit were half that of the previous week. Pilgrim numbers were dwindling. Secondly I got a note from a pilgrim who had walked the route from A Coruña and had got “horribly lost”. Since with this route and the Guide this is nearly impossible the decision was taken – off to A Coruña.

I like A Coruña a lot. It is the seaside resort of choice for Spanish people and you will rarely hear an English voice. It is the more authentic starting point for the Camino Inglés with records showing that pilgrims from Northern Europe would arrive there by boat for the relatively short walk of 75 kms or so to Santiago. However since it doesn’t meet the 100 kms requirement to qualify modern pilgrims for a Compostela a second branch of the route was designated from Ferrol which is approximately 118 kms from Santiago. The route from A Coruña is very straightforward, nowadays well waymarked, and passes through beautiful hamlets and miles of pastoral countryside. The first Guide in English to this route had been produced by a member of the CSJ. There were no arrows or signs and simply using the main churches and common sense they had discerned the route medieval pilgrims might have taken. They described this in the Guide and when I came along a few years later I walked “their route” and up dated the directions and information. Having spent two days exploring what could have caused the pilgrim's confusion I discovered that at some point either the local authority or local Amigos had waymarked a route which in parts is substantially different for a few kilometres. I’m pleased to say it is now sorted out and the new version of the Guide will avoid any confusion. Promise.
Because pilgrims can’t get a Compostela for walking the route from A Coruña it isn’t known how many start there as the numbers are not registered. Certainly in the previous times I have walked that arm of the route I haven’t met any other pilgrims and I have been struck that local people didn’t really know much about it. But the Camino Inglés has been growing in popularity over the last few years and here are the numbers of pilgrims who walked from Ferrol:

2000 - 98, 2001 - 131, 2002  - 181, 2003 -  260, 2004  - 3,096 (Holy Year) 2005 - 651, 2006  - 804, 2007 - 1,085, 2008 - 1,451, 2009 - 1793,  2010 - so far this year - 6,000 (Holy Year)

I set off not knowing whether more pilgrims had left from A Coruña than before but I noticed a difference as soon as I started walking. One or two people even in the city smiled as I went past with my rucksack. A van driver at traffic lights sounded his horn and waved “buen camino”. The route goes past the beautiful Parish Church of Sigras with an historic pilgrim hospital and is then out in open countryside. Passing a little cottage a man dressed in overalls emerged from the garage adjacent. He responded to my greeting with, “Hola, de donde es usted?” “Soy de Escocia” I replied in Spanish. He continued in broken English, “but if you are Scottish why are you walking the English Way?” He asked laughing at his own joke. This was Guillermo who 20 years ago lived in Inverness in the North of Scotland learning welding. “near Loch Ness, but I didn’t see the monster” he laughed again. He confirmed there had been many pilgrims passing his garden gate this year and after a little wished me “buen viaje”.

Apart from his warmth there were other clues that the route is more popular. The waymarking has significantly improved and the tradition of passing pilgrims placing a stone on top of the waymark was more physical evidence that told me that pilgrims have indeed been on the route. There was none of this four years ago when I first walked. In a bar the owner gave me coffee and asked if I needed anything to eat. “Are you walking to meet the Pope?” she enquired. I explained that I was walking to avoid the crowds going to Santiago to see the Pope. She lamented the effects of the economic crisis in Spain on small rural communities but she said that this year in particular there had been a lot of passing trade from pilgrims. Further on I encountered two signs a few kilometres apart which I hadn’t seen before. The first was offering to buy Gold from the villagers of Galicia. I think this is a powerful symptom of the recession. No less so but perhaps a more attractive response further along the route was a new sign advertising “Horses to rent”.

Signs and notices are often very good indicators of what is going on in places and along this route local people could not fail to see the increase number of Camino signs and yellow arrows. Sadly, I also saw the beginnings of the “DO NOT” approach which I hate on the very popular Camino Frances. Here is an example. Rather than saying “Pilgrims if your are wet, please come in and shelter” the sign says “Pilgrims, don’t come in if you have wet ponchos and rucksacks”. The route becoming more popular has its downside.

I was thinking about all of this when José, the shepherd appeared from behind a hedge. It was one of these conversations when total strangers talk as if they have known each other for years. His English was excellent and José explained that he had worked all over England as a waiter for almost 30 years when he had been forced to return to the village in Galicia where he was born to look after ailing parents. “They are both dead now” he said, “it is just me. I have the house and a pension from England”. We chatted for a while. “José, what do you make of the pilgrims?” I asked. “Without the pilgrims who do I talk to? He asked. “The sheep?

I arrived in Hospital de Bruma in the company of two lassies from Madrid who had walked from Ferrol. I had a fond reunion with Carmen and Benino, the wonderful hospitalera and her husband. For those not sleeping in the albergue or who want food Benino has painted blue arrows showing the short walk to Meson do Vento and my hostal of choice, the highly recommended O Meson Novo. There I was greeted warmly. “El Señor de la guía esta aquí” I heard them say. This is a family run roadside bar and hostal which has rooms which are not only half the price of the hotel across the road but are also double the quality. When I first arrived at the O Meson Novo 4 years ago I asked if they provided food. They looked glum. “We really don’t do meals but we could do sandwiches or a ración for you” they said. In fact they produced a splendid meal of delicious boiled ham, french fries and fresh salad. The following year a couple of us arrived cold and hungry. “Do you have any soup to start with?” I enquired. “I may have a packet in the kitchen, would that be alright?” The lady was hesistant. When it was served she had obviously added things like pieces of real chicken. Fabulous. This time I sensed a difference. I checked in and showered. It had been a long day. When I got downstairs the lady said, “now sir, what do you feel like eating…just ask and I will prepare it?” What a difference. “Have you had many pilgrims here since I saw you last?” I asked. “Lots”, said Don Antonio who fetched his wife and they spoke in the English they had learned 25 years ago when they worked in Leeds, “oh yes, a busy year, we like the pilgrims, many of them have your guide, we try to help them if they have problems, if they need to make phone calls or if they need informations.” Then with chests swelling with pride they announced “and we can now do English Breakfasts if you wish, – bacon, sausages, tomatoes, fried eggs, fried bread. Oh yes, the English Breakfasts, we do them here.”

Something is happening on the Camino Inglés.

Dear Diary – Day Four of the Camino Inglés

Hospital de Bruma - Sigüeiro - Santiago

Hospital de Bruma – Sigüeiro 24 kms
Sigüeiro – Santiago de Compostela 16 kms

Most people walk the 40 kms into Santiago in two stages, stopping off in Sigüeiro. But the route from Bruma is so flat and straightforward it could readily be done in one long day by stronger walkers.
We bade Carmen a fond farewell. I hope to see her again during the Holy Year, next year. We passed the cottage where part of the medieval pilgrims hospice is incorporated into the building and immediately we were on a long, straight and flat road. There weren’t any cars.

Then we walked on for a couple of hours strolling through hamlet after hamlet until we stopped for a coffee in As Buscas, 8 kms from Bruma. There is a new posh Casa Rural in the village and another one 2.5 kms further on.. More sleeping options for pilgrims and a sure sign the route is becoming more popular.

We soon set off again passing the quaint village church with a small 18th Century statue of San Paio, a child martyr.

Flat and green, we knew from the country side we were in rural Spain. A feature of much of this route we had noticed was the number of older women tending the fields or market gardens on their own. Were they all widows? Where were the men? “Playing cards with Benino,” the Guidechecker mused.

Our next stop was going to be Calle de Poulo and on the way there I answered a question which had been bothering me since the Guide was written. The original 2000 Guide described the route as going directly to the Church of San Julián de Poulo. The new Guide didn’t mention it. So where was it? The answer of course is that the route has changed and the church now lies off to the Right of the current route which passes behind it at some distance. Problem solved.

We felt slightly peckish by the time we had walked another hour or so and we hoped that Caroline, the owner of the O Cruceiro bar in Calle de Poulo would be out of bed and opened for business. After all it was nearly 1pm! The last time I was at the Bar the men of the village were waiting outside waiting for Caroline to open. I discovered she had been born and raised in England and her father had bought her this bar in his home village. She explained she was running it on her own and with the Spaniards’ late night eating and drinking habits she couldn’t open early in the morning. I put this information in the Guide so that hungry pilgrims arriving before 1pm could eat earlier.

We marched into the Bar and in English asked for “two steak pies and mushy peas” – Caroline’s face broke into a smile, “I heard yesterday you were coming“, she said. She saw my puzzled look and explained that the most amazing pilgrim had called in yesterday with a copy of the Guide and had mentioned that I was going to be around. This was Maime a pilgrim I had been in e mail correspondence with. Why “amazing”? Well what I didn’t know was that Maime is 83, was walking alone and commanded admiration from everyone she met along the route.

Caoline served us a plate of Jamón Serrano and tomatoes instead of steak pie and introduced us to her father. She explained that he had now moved back home permanently and was opening the Bar early in the mornings. Guide updated!
On the way I was taking pictures of sheep and lambs in a field when the shepherd who had been resting under a tree came over to talk to us. “Buenos días” we greeted him.”Are you English?” was his reply. We explained we were NOT English but Scottish. He laughed heartily at the joke and went on to explain in perfect English that he had worked for 30 years in restaurants in London and had come home to the village to look after elderly parents who had recently died. Now it was only him and the sheep. “Was he happy?” I asked a little nosily. “How could I not be?” he said looking at the sheep in the field. Indeed.
Then we made the push onto Sigüeiro. Although this stage is very pleasant and flat it does have a sting in the tale. 5 kms from Sigüeiro the route turns Left and there is a section of 4 kms where you walk in a straight line on a wide path between trees. It goes up and down. It is tedious and on a hot afternoon it seems to go on for 2 million kilometers. To pass the time until Sigüeiro and his first beer, the Guidechecker decided to recite the many faux pas of Johnnie Walker which entertained him on this Camino. The litany began…you did that BIG thing about the weight of your pack in the airport, I had to look away….you made us walk back along the route in Ferrol to get to the beginning only to walk it again… then you had the guy laugh at you when you asked about the number of pilgrims…sawing your tooth brush in half…taking 2 hour detours up a mountain…taking us to lunch in a restaurant that was closed, some Guidewriter… on and on it went. And when he came to the end he started the litany again. By the time we reached Sigüeiro I was planning the perfect murder.

There is very little to commend the route from Sigüeiro to Santiago apart from the fact the end is Santiago. Spanish pilgrims describe it as feissimo – VERY ugly. I wouldn’t say it is that bad and some of it is on pleasant forest paths. But it is boring mostly and I’ll just skip that bit and finish this tale in Santiago.

No matter how often I walk the beginning and the end are always exciting. This time was just the same. Catching sight of the tips of the Cathedral spires, walking through the narrow streets of the old town, entering the great Cathedral Square and seeing the joy of fellow pilgrims arriving from different routes, getting the final stamp in the Pilgrims’ Office and seeing the botafumeiro fly at the 12 noon Pilgrims’ Mass.

Then off to lunch. Afterwards we called in at a little bar for a post-prandial copa or two of liqueur. Perhaps it was the headiness of finishing the Camino or the effects of the booze or both but I overheard the Guidechecker chatting to the woman behind the Bar. She had been issuing orders to the waiters in a stream of colloquial Spanish but now she spoke to him in English. “Your English is very good” I heard the Guidechecker compliment her…”Well, it should be,” she replied, “I’m American”.

YES! Game, set and match to JW wouldn’t you say? Revenge is so sweet.

Dear Diary – Day Three of the Camino Inglés

Betanzos – Hospital de Bruma 29 kms (+2 Meson do Vento)

The previous evening I had spent talking to the people in the Tourist Office in the square in Betanzos. I had explained that one of the biggest problems with this very beautiful route is the length of the stage between Betanzos and Meson do Vento. They were very familiar with the issue and the fact that 12 kms from Bruma there is a steep walk uphill. I explained that some pilgrims had written to me asking if there was any alternative accommodation along the way. They got out their maps and directories and demonstrated what they had researched many times before: there was no other accommodation on or near the route. We discussed the feasibility of getting a taxi to meet pilgrims along the way either to return to Betanzos or go forward to Meson do Vento. Their view was that the latter was the best option. I resolved to get the number of a local taxi in Meson do Vento when I got there. But first I would take a hard look at just how difficult this stage would be for older or less experienced pilgrims.

6am. No time to even imagine seagulls this morning. We were full of purpose knowing that a walk of over 30 kms awaited. We organised breakfast the night before although we knew that there were some bars open from 7am. The air was chilly but as the sun came up it was obvious it was going to be another very warm day.

We set off sharp. I was silent. It takes me quite some time to come fully awake in the morning. Not so my companion. He began to read the guide book out loud as we got started interspersing information about the route with updates of the football scores gleaned from the Spanish newspapers. I momentarily began to think murder might be the answer.

I think the thing that irritated me was the fact that I wrote the guidebook. And here was this smart Alec reading out my own instructions:

“There are sections of the stage today which some may find demanding. There are opportunities to top up on water on the way but in very hot weather it may be advisable to carry more than usual. Food is usually available at the Bar Julia some 18 kms from Betanzos but you may wish to carry some with you. You should also carry some energy food such as dried fruit and nuts or energy bars.

Whilst there are stretches walking uphill the rewards of this stage are many and you will encounter beautiful scenes and vistas.”

We had organised breakfast but not a packed lunch despite the advice I had written. But we set out with self assurance. We would have lunch at the Bar Julia only 18kms away, about 4.5 hours walking.
We walked steadily uphill out of Betanzos noticing that the new waymarks which have been placed through the route are particularly helpful in this stretch as the yellow arrows are very faded. And from the occasional figures of St James it appears that people are becoming more aware of the pilgrimage. Numbers are increasing every year.

This is a long stretch of forest paths and pastoral scenery. Before the temperature rose with the sun it didn’t feel like Spain. This could be Scotland or Devon. We remarked on how lush it was. The dew has been heavy. Silken cobwebs still glistened on the grass. Many flowers by the path were in bloom.

The sound of seagulls had been replaced by the sound of other birds as we walked through the woods. We stopped for a break and scoffed the half bag of nuts we had left from the day before. The temperature was rising but we were making good progress.

Just as were discussing how the scenery could have been in Scotland we passed a tethered donkey quietly grazing under a tree. It could only have been Spain.
Feeling hungry I explained to my amigo that we were nearly at the Bar Julia. The proximity boosted my confidence, “ We just turn left along here, go through what appears to be someone’s front garden, go down a slope, turn left on to the road …and there it will be.”

We did all of that. It was there right enough. Closed.

Worse than closed. It had a bag of bread hanging from a hook on the door awaiting the owner’s return. Hmmmm.

But the bread was safe and we beetled off down to the fuente at the bottom of the road to recharge our water bottles and prepare for the ascent in front of us.

The guide read that we would be walking uphill for approximately 3 kms or at my pace 45 mins. After that in a further 1 km there was another bar 100 meters off the route. This gave us an incentive. Lunch in 1 hour. Off we set.

To be honest the first time I walked up this hill it was daunting and exhausting. The problem was I didn’t know when it would end. Now I knew that the rise is steady and steep in places with an elevation of 400 meters in 3kms. 45 mins.

I had also discovered on previous Caminos that the best way to make progress for me was to refuse to stop. Stopping doesn’t get you any further forward. Far better to take the smallest steps or take a short break every 20 paces than stop completely.

Just before the steepest stretch on forest path there is a little house. Looking back the view is excellent. With much groaning we set off up the last stretch. When yet another section of path came into view I heard a not so soft curse beside me. Rashly promising double the fee in beers that evening we both made the final burst and we were there.

After resting we made our way to the Café Bar Vizoño. There was only one other customer. We asked the chap behind the bar if they had food. He in turn asked the person in the kitchen. His wife came out to speak to us. She was wearing wellingtons, a dust coat that had seen better days and a pork pie hat cocked at a cheeky angle. She was nice but explained that they didn’t have food. Undeterred we asked if she had some bread, “yes” she replied…and it was also “yes” to tomatoes and chorizo. She retreated to the kitchen finally understanding that if she didn’t feed us we might raid the fridge ourselves.

When she brought the food it was a feast. A plate of chorizo and salami, rustic bread and plate of the most delicious tomatoes and onion drizzled in thick green olive oil. This was the best thing we’d ever tasted.

“As for the Bar Julia” she said, “your guide is wrong, they only open by arrangement during the week.” Fortunately she told us this after we had eaten or the murderous feelings I’d had for the Guidechecker earlier in the day might have been reciprocated.

Then it was a breeze reaching Hospital de Bruma where Benino and his wife Carmen the hospitalera greeted us like long lost friends. I made arrangements to come back and see Carmen at the albergue in the morning and we made our way to Meson do Vento.
The greeting was just as warm at the Pension O Meson Novo. After putting down a large deposit for the amount of beer I had to pay for that evening and sorting out the rooms we had a chat with the family who run it. They speak English having spent some years in England in the catering industry returning to that very place 34 years before. The son Antonio explained that it was time to modernise…start a website, advertise. To make the point he handed me a handwritten leaflet. I asked him what this sentence meant, “ Posibilidad de buscar a peregrinos al Camino Inglés”. “Oh”, he said, “If pilgrims call us to book a room we’ll go and get them, bring them here and drop them back again the next morning. That should help with the Big Hill.”

Help? Problem solved!

Dear Diary – Day Two of the Camino Inglés

Pontedeume – Betanzos 20 kms

I woke up in the dark to the sound of seagulls. Again. No poetry this morning.

Although I walk a lot I’m feeling stiff. The effects of the first day, the sun and the cervecas no doubt.
Last time I was here writing the Guide I set off at dawn to walk the detour to the Church of San Miguel de Breamo which sits high on the hill above Pontedueme.

Over coffee the Guidechecker, reading of today’s route commented on the description of the walk to San Miguel de Breamo. “ Last time, you did this before breakfast and before you set off on the route to Betanzos?” he enquired with a look that said…” tooth brush sawn in half, walking the route to the beginning then back again and a 2 hour walk before the day’s walking began…” Pitiful is the message conveyed.

Along the top of the bar the breakfast buffet was laid out – a choice of cakes or biscuits. A couple of locals were chain smoking in the corner. They were drinking strong expressos with a slug of aguardiente. I’ve tasted it. It really is firewater. And after all – it IS 7 am, what better time for a drink!

In Scotland it is considered weakness to have even a spoonful of sugar in your porridge so we eschew the cakes and biscuits and I negotiate a tortilla francesa. Two freshly made 2 egg omelettes appear in a jiffy and Louis with a cosmopolitan air gives us each a sachet of ketchup. This breakfast is almost Scottish.

We set off in the cool morning air. The sky was clear. It would be hot again today.

The book says we are going to be walking up hill for about 3 kms. Very soon reality confirmed that the book is correct. We reminded ourselves that some people pay money to go to the gym every morning for this kind of cardiovascular exercise. We stopped to admire the views looking back and told ourselves it was worth it. And we kept walking up.

Soon we were warm even before the sun came up filtering through the forest track when the route levels out above Pontedeume. Different smells filled the air, pine, grass. Dew wet our boots.

Not far along this stretch is a seated area. Really handy after the walk up out of Pontedeume. There is a fuente where we topped up water bottles and rested for a few minutes.

A local man strolled past and we chatted to him briefly. I asked him if there were many other peregrinos. “Oh yes, “he replied,” I saw two English people, an Irish woman and a German, I think.” “Gosh,” I said. “That’s a lot. Was this earlier today or yesterday?” He stared…”no, in the last week.” He replied. My compañero laughed with the man.

More people are giving me funny looks these days. But as far as the Guidechecker is concerned there will be revenge. Rest assured.

As we left the chap we passed a nearby lavadero. These are washing areas in villages in Galicia and often people can be seen washing clothes. The water is ice cold and they are also great places to revive tired feet on a hot day.
Soon we took a right turn off the road and the route took us through rural Galicia at its best. Green and lush. In the forest birds were singing. Horses and donkeys sprinkled the fields.

We stopped very briefly at the Ponte Baxoi then we made our way into Miño. A right turn at the main road would have taken us to the very well appointed albergue but we carried on straight ahead out of town.

The estuary appeared on our right and we made our way down through country lanes to have lunch by the river. Every day should be like this.

Then as we set out refreshed I couldn’t resist some small revenge. “You see that motor way flyover up there?” I said pointing. “Yes, the one which is really high up. Well we’re going to walk up to a point just above that – but it won’t take long.”

It was above us
Then we were beside it
Then we were above it

But in all honesty it took just less than 15 mins to walk but it didn’t stop the question being asked halfway up: “When do I get my first beer?”

We set off down the other side through lovely lanes and paths until we were on the outskirts of Betanzos. There we hit heavy traffic and nearly got involved in a three horse traffic jam.

Tomorrow is a big day – early to bed.

Dear Diary – Day One of the Camino Inglés

Ferrol – Pontedeume 25 kms

In that half sleep before wakening I realised that a childhood parody of the John Masefield poem was running over and over in my head:

I must go down to the sea again, the lonely sea and the sky
I left my vest and socks there
I wonder if they’re dry?

It was pitch black. The window shutters in Spain do a good job. "What is that sound?" Then it was clearer. Seagulls crying out in the dawn. Memories of seaside holidays long past.

Packed for breakfast at 7am when the place across the road opened. The lights have been on for ages and on the dot the woman opened the door. This is a huge café from the 1930’s. Original furniture and fittings. Behind the counter a man in white worked at a deep fat fryer. The sweet smell of home baking told us this wasn’t a fish and chip restaurant. So too did the mountain of churros on the counter. We ordered sweet café con leche, and orange juice. “Churros?” the woman enquired. I decided to try one. With sugar. Dipped in the coffee.

I realised in an instant that although it had the taste of ambrosia it was also about 1 million fat laden calories. I could be a churro addict.

A queue was forming. Restaurants collecting large bags of churros. Others taking them home or to the office for breakfast. “ 2 for me and 8 for the kids” a man ordered as we left.

An hour later we were eating a proper breakfast in a café in Ferrol just round the corner from the Tourist Office where at 9am prompt it opened to give us our Pilgrim Records and first sello. We were off.

My compañero had my guidebook in his hand and his job was to check it for accuracy. The fee for this service in daily end-of-the-day cervecas had already been negotiated. As we walked I mentioned to him that we were walking down part of the route to go to the beginning at the harbour. A few steps later the mad meaning dawned on him. “You mean we are walking backwards on the route so we can walk the same way again from the start?”
At the harbour we set off. From the beginning.

We imagined we were medieval pilgrims just off the boat from Scotland and we set off.

This was to be a day of sea views, sea gulls and glorious sunshine.
The route has changed mostly sympathetically since the first guide was written in 2000 and we took the alternative route by the sea mentioned in the guide and recommended by the tourist office.

On the way to Neda we encountered a new Camino in honour of San Andrés de Teixido but just before the route turns on to a beautiful new riverside promenade in Neda we left San Andrés behind. Santiago is enough for now!

Lunch on the promenade then more riverside walking past the Albergue before turning inland to climb briefly.
On this route you quickly learn that what goes up must come down. But on the Camino Inglés the climbs are very often rewarded by excellent views.

Today there is also some walking on the kind of forest paths we will encounter over the next few days. I’m also very fond of lilies and we find them everywhere. Growing by the roadside, in gardens, in fields.
As we walked on the sun got stronger. We had to apply more sun screen. The route felt as if we were in “real” Spain. We passed through small hamlets. There people were shy, eyes downcast when we approached but their faces lit up in greeting when we shouted “Buenos Dias”.
The sun was high and it was hot when The Guidechecker asked what was to be a daily question,“When do I get my first beer, please?” The answer was “Soon, but first let’s go to the beach” and, following the waymarks, so we did.
As we strolled along the beach at Cabanas 1 km from our destination Pontedeume, the temptation to go swimming was very strong. Another day perhaps. For now we wanted to get across the historic bridge into Pontedeume for our lodgings and dinner at the Bar Louis. 24 euros each for dinner, bed and breakfast. I also paid the daily fee to the Guidechecker.