Hola
Another busy week has just flown past. It has been very hot. Thundery weather. What the Spanish call "bochorno". The people of Galicia aren't used to temperatures in the 30's and not being able to sleep because of the heat. The staff of the office have been complaining of tiredness - and not just because of the heat. A steady 12 - 1400 pilgrims per day have been arriving this week and in the last 7 days 10,966 pilgrims have arrived. Last Friday Amigos Jim from Ireland and Roy from Bolton (on the Left) in England said goodbye to Betty and Dugald (on the right) and have been working hard every day welcoming pilgrims and answering their questions.
Maybe because it has been so hot and we are now in the busiest time of the year the staff of the office have a number of competitions going... for example who has written the strangest name on a Compostela? We've also been listing the ways in which pilgrims get here. Of course the majority come on foot but others use wheelchairs, horses, bicycles and a great array of machines and gadgets. Here is what we have listed. Have you seen any others?
Showing posts with label Santiago Diary. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Santiago Diary. Show all posts
Friday, 24 August 2012
Friday, 17 August 2012
This week in Santiago - lots of pilgrims but still time for prayer
"More pilgrims in 6 days than in a third of July"
Thus screamed the newspaper headlines. The number they are talking about is the 11,201 pilgrims who have arrived since I last posted. At times it has been very busy, but no more so than usual at this time of year. Newspaper hyperbole apart, the August rush is well under way. As you can see pilgrims are still overjoyed at their arrival and although they say there have been queues at some albergues there have been beds available on all of the routes.
Santiago has been busy with visitors particularly this week because of the Feast of the Assumption on the 15th and the Feast of San Roque yesterday. On the 15th the cathedral was packed as people streamed in for the Solemn Mass of the Feast which began with a procession accompanied by the Cathedral choir and medieval musical instruments the chimirias. They continued to play as the great botifumeiro swung at the start of the Mass. If you wish to hear them click here
In August more groups arrive than in any other month of the year and so far we have had: scout groups, girl guides, youth groups, church groups, seminarians, pensioners clubs and a large group of the children of soldiers serving in the Spanish army (below).
It is busy but there is always room for one more. Still room for the lone pilgrim who arrives in the square and mounts the steps to the Pilgrims' Office. Still room for moments of individual joy and reflection on a journey well made.
It was a privilege for us to meet Roswitha who had walked from her home in Germany to Santiago, 10 times the distance of many pilgrims. When we asked her what her Camino had meant to her she reached into her rucksack and presented us with a piece of paper. "This says it all for me" she said. We've tried to translate it...and maybe it does say it all:
Pilgrim, do not look back, do not turn around
For that would discourage you.
Instead look to the road in front of you where I am calling you.
Do not think about how far away the goal is and how little you travel walking each step.
Instead live each step. I am walking with you.
Throw out everything you don't need, don't carry extra weight
Throw out all your cares and everything that worries you
Let go and travel light. I will give you everything you need.
Don't compare yourself to others as you go. Find your own rhythm as you continue onward.
I love you as you are.
Follow the road carefully so that you can see the signs that will lead you in the right direction
I will guide you.
Be cautious of taking shortcuts as they may turn out to make the journey longer.
I am the Way.
But if you make a mistake and take a wrong turning do not lose heart these things are also part of your journey. I am always by your side.
When you are tired or stumble do not be afraid. Get up again.
I will hold you.
Do not look down at your feet all the time trying to avoid obstacles. Look up and admire the beauty all around you. I will keep you safe.
Accept all that happens to you on the road; bad weather, hunger and thirst, illness, unpleasant people...your own weaknesses. I am your goal.
Take time to give thanks, but do not waste time. Use every opportunity to praise, to sing, to dance and to celebrate. When you do this, I love you.
Friday, 10 August 2012
Pilgrims large and small - a week in Santiago
![]() |
| The three belles - Mari with Susan and Angela |
Traditionally Spanish people take their holidays during August and therefore it was no surprise that the first of these who started in Cebreiro or Sarria are now arriving. This morning when we arrived at the office a long queue had already formed. Antonio from Valencia who had walked from O Cebreiro was first in the queue. "I've been waiting since 6am" he said with a broad smile. Nothing could quench his delight in finally getting his Compostela.
This week has also seen many groups arriving. A huge group of young people from Spain, France and Portugal arrived on a walking pilgrimage organised by the religious order the Claretianos. In bright t shirts they sang their way up the stairs of the Pilgrims Office. We enjoyed their singing but we were glad when the last one left. However soon we were regaled again as they repeated their repertoire from the Cathedral steps in the Plaza Praterias.
A smaller and altogether more poignant group was the Japanese contingent who arrived having walked from Leon. These were representatives of the Amigos of the Camino de Santiago in Japan who were walking with young people they had brought from the area devastated by the terrible earthquakes last year
As the queue of pilgrims snakes into the Office we never know who is going arrive. "What does that word mean?" I asked the older man who had just filled in his occupation on the form. "It means "Bishop" in French. I'm 84 and glad to be here." He beamed having walked from Sarria. Standing beside him was a girl in her early 20's. She looked brown and fit and had that glow that long distance pilgrims exude. I glanced at her credencial. She had started walking from her home in Holland. The Bishop and the lassie shook hands and congratulated each other. Old and young, long distance and short, two bound by the bond of the pilgrimage.
The broadest smiles were enjoyed by two families from Brussels who started in Irun on the Camino del Norte. 11 of them in total, there were only three adults, the rest were their children aged from 12 down to 2 months. We were all agreed that the mother deserved the biggest Compostela of all!
Tuesday, 3 July 2012
All the numbers from Santiago – growth continues
All the numbers from Santiago – growth continues
Hola
The statistics for
pilgrims arriving in Santiago
for the period 1 January 2012 to 30 June 2012 have now been analysed.
In the first 6 months
of the year 67,447 pilgrims have
been received in the Pilgrims’ Office. In the same period in 2011, the previous
year 63,725 arrived. The increase of 3722 is modest growth of just less than 6% in the overall numbers.
However much higher
growth rates are appearing in the nuberof pilgrims coming from English speaking
countries. I have now added a column with the percentage growth comparing 2011
with 2012.
|
Country
|
2009
|
2010
|
2011
|
2012
|
Growth
|
|
Australia
|
456
|
493
|
528
|
756
|
43%
|
|
Canada
|
876
|
773
|
909
|
1145
|
26%
|
|
Ireland
|
799
|
1090
|
1048
|
1752
|
67%
|
|
South Africa
|
124
|
126
|
212
|
312
|
47%
|
|
United Kingdom
|
656
|
529
|
542
|
907
|
67%
|
|
United States
|
1098
|
1357
|
1540
|
2724
|
77%
|
|
New Zealand
|
138
|
92
|
93
|
138
|
48%
|
Analysis of the period 1 January
2012 to 30 June 2012
During the period 67.447 pilgrims
arrived
Sorry about the drunken columns - I assure you it is Blogger and not me!
Countries
Holand 1495
(2,22%)
Canada 1145
(1,70%)
Brasil 1033
(1,53%)
Korea 986
(1,46%)
Austria 906
(1,34%)
Australia 756 (1,12%)
Belgium 736 (1,09%)
Switzerland 632 (0,94%)
Denmark 611 (0,91%)
Sweden 576 (0,85%)
Polonand 570
(0,85%)
Norway 431
(0,64%)
Japan 424
(0,63%)
México 412
(0,61%)
Finland 408
(0,60%)
Russia 191 (0,28%)
Venezuela 170 (0,25%)
Slovenia 156 (0,23%)
Colombia 151
(0,22%)
New Zealand 138 (0,20%)
Slovakia 130 (0,19%)
Romania 84 (0,12%)
Chile 84 (0,12%)
China 68 (0,10%)
Ecuador 66 (0,10%)
Uruguay 61
(0,09%)
Bulgaria 53
(0,08%)
Puerto Rico 52
(0,08%)
Lithuania 51
(0,08%)
Perú 50
(0,07%)
Israel 41
(0,06%)
Estonia 39
(0,06%)
Andorra 39
(0,06%)
Philippines
31 (0,05%)
Greece 30
(0,04%)
Croacia 30
(0,04%)
Malta 28
(0,04%)
Luxemburgh 27
(0,04%)
Ukraine 25
(0,04%)
Gender Number
of pilgrims
Men 38940 (57,73%)
Women 28507 (42,27%)
Method
of transport Number of pilgrims
On foot 57017 (84,54%)
Bicycle 10204 (15,13%)
Horseback 217 (0,32%)
Wheelchair users 9 (0,01%)
Reason for pilgrimage Number of pilgrims
Religious or other
reasons 34910 (51,76%)
Religious 28920 (42,88%)
Non religious 3617 (5,36%)
Employment status Number of pilgrims
Employed 16156 (23,95%)
Retired 11177
(16,57%)
Technicians 9235 (13,69%)
Students 8580 (12,72%)
Self Employed 7224 (10,71%)
Teachers 3539 (5,25%)
Civil Servants 3472 (5,15%)
Manual workers 2330 (3,45%)
Unemployed 1959 (2,90%)
Housewives 1781 (2,64%)
Directors 696 (1,03%)
Artists 492 (0,73%)
Priests 270
(0,40%)
Farm workers 223 (0,33%)
Religious 150 (0,22%)
Sailors 87 (0,13%)
Sports people 69 (0,10%)
Oikoten 7 (0,01%)
Age range Number
of pilgrims
30 - 60 38967
(57,77%)
< 30
14546 (21,57%)
> 60
13934 (20,66%)
Camino Number of pilgrims
Camino Francés 47.229
(70,02%)
Camino Portugués 9.965 (14,77%)
Vía de la Plata 3.650
(5,51%)
Camino del Norte 3.308 (4,90%)
Camino Primitivo 1.905 (2,82%)
Camino Inglés 1.094
(1,62%)
Otros Caminos 173
(0,26%)
Muxia, Finisterre 123 (0,18%)
Starting point Number
of pilgrims
Sarria 13856 (20,54%)
S. Jean P. Port 8257 (12,24%)
Leon 3760
(5,57%)
Oporto 3543
(5,25%)
Roncesvalles 3226
(4,78%)
Cebreiro 3113
(4,62%)
Tui 2553
(3,79%)
Ponferrada 2338
(3,47%)
Pamplona 1741
(2,58%)
Astorga 1646
(2,44%)
Le Puy 1473
(2,18%)
Burgos 1470
(2,18%)
Rest of Portugal 1366 (2,03%)
Sevilla 1330
(1,97%)
Valenca 1285
(1,91%)
Oviedo - C.P.
1190 (1,76%)
Ferrol 1078
(1,60%)
Ourense 878
(1,30%)
Irun 862
(1,28%)
France 859
(1,27%)
Vilafranca 778
(1,15%)
Triacastela 538
(0,80%)
Samos 487
(0,72%)
Rest of C. Leon 415 (0,62%)
Holand 406 (0,60%)
Ponte de Lima 357 (0,53%)
Logroño 334 (0,50%)
Rest of Asturias 292 (0,43%)
Somport 260 (0,39%)
Ribadeo 193 (0,29%)
Gijon 172
(0,26%)
Chaves-Portugal 159 (0,24%)
Baamonde 150
(0,22%)
Belgium 147
(0,22%)
Sahagun 147
(0,22%)
Vilalba 146
(0,22%)
Puebla de Sanabria 146 (0,22%)
Jaca 123 (0,18%)
Rest of Asturias
- C.P 111 (0,16%)
Rest of Pais Vasco 106 (0,16%)
A Guarda 97 (0,14%)
Lourdes 95 (0,14%)
Vega de Valcarce 92 (0,14%)
Muxia 90 (0,13%)
Fromista 84
(0,12%)
Vezelay
81 (0,12%)
Rest of Andalucia 81 (0,12%)
Monday, 9 January 2012
The organist wore red underwear...
![]() |
| Puerta del Sol - Madrid |
Christmas here was wonderful but in many ways quite different the UK. For example I had a full schedule of playing - 2 services on Christmas Eve including Midnight Mass or the Mass of the Cockrel as they call it then three on Christmas morning. Usually midnight mass is the highlight. I'm used to a candlelit carol service and a packed church. Here it was cold and wintry and there was a half full church. How so? Well I discovered that here in Spain on the Christmas Eve, the Noche Buena, the tradition is that families sit down together to eat a meal of many courses. As the services gradually filled up on Christmas Day until there was standing room only at the final Mass at 1pm I heard story after story of the night before. "We had 28 of the family to dinner last night", "Oh really? We had 33 plus 7 children." No wonder the streets and the pews were empty.
There was little respite for me in the few days until New Year and the funerals came piling in. I've played at 35 in about 25 weeks. However New Year was splendid. The Plaza Obradoiro rocked and fireworks filled the sky over the cathedral as I raised a glass to welcome the New Year before getting up early the next morning for the three services of the Feast of Our Lady the Patroness of Spain.
One more thing about how the Spanish celebrate the New Year. In Scotland we tend to have family dinners on New years Eve just as the Spaniards do on Christmas Eve, then as the bells toll a glass of something, often whisky is raised in a toast. Here as the bells of the clock tower in the Puerta del Sol in Madrid the dead centre of Spain chimed midnight Spanish friends munched a grape, 12 in all to welcome the new year. Many of them also wore red underwear. Now, underwear is not something we usually speak about nor write about in pilgrim blogs. But the truth is over the few weeks leading up to new year I couldn't help but notice that shop windows were full of displays of red underwear. It seemed to be everywhere. I thought about taking some pictures to show you the extent of it but I couldn't bring myself to been seen camera in hand taking pictures of underwear. However over a few drinks I did pluck up courage to ask some friends about this tradición intimá as some of the posters in shop windows put it. To much laughter they confirmed this was the case. Many Spaniards wear red underwear to bring in the new year to give them good luck for the year to come. It has to be new red underwear, by the way to give you the best chance of good fortune. A short google search revealed that this is a tradition shared in Italy, in Mexico...in China!
Now you know.
It is a New Year and New Project as colleagues in the Confraternity of St James and the Irish Society of the Friends of St. James launched the new Service of 100,000 welcomes. We are going to open an apartment here in Santiago in which volunteers will live for minimum periods of two weeks whilst they work in the Pilgrims' Office providing a personal welcome to every pilgrim who arrives. It is also an English language based programme and the volunteers, called Amigos, will provide information in English to those who needs it. We are going to run this project this year from May - October, the walking season, and then evaluate its success before deciding on future years. In this pilot period volunteers will be drawn from the membership of the CSJ and the Irish Friends and those known to them. It is very exciting and already members have started to write expressing an interest. Information is available from both organisations and I'll post further information here when I get my breath back.
Then the other day I went down to the train station where I usually get the train to Pontevedra to find a throng of thousands waiting for the arrival of the three kings. This was the Feast of the Epiphany. Arrive they did and a splendid procession began through the town. This was not the spectacle of Sevilla or Madrid. It was a much more homely affair. But the streets were lined with people. Children were held high with plastic bags open to catch some of the tons of sweets which were thrown into the crowds. On the back of the floats carrying the Kings a seemingly endless supply of sweets sat like bags of swag as the marching band played at full tilt. Everyone was happy.
It is also a time for making resolutions. I've got a few. I'm astonished to look back and count up that I have played 150 times in the last 5 months. This is more than I played in the UK and is frankly too much. Forgive a short morbid rant about this but I had no idea that in Spain when you die you are buried within 24 hours. Whatever the benefits of this tradition for me it means a phone call sometimes late in the evening asking me to come the next morning or afternoon. I can see in the distance caminos becoming impossible, the diary being arranged around organ commitments, coordinating the new project and answering the phone about funerals! So there will be change. I'm going to walk more. I've devised a new route here in Santiago, it is the Route of Routes a guide to which will be published later in the year. I'll tell you more about it soon. I want to do more of this and other walking projects. So many routes...
So dear reader, thank you once again for calling in. I'll finish this blog by wishing you all a Happy New Year. I hope that the year brings you good things and that at least some of your camino dreams and ambitions come true.
And did the organist wear red underwear for luck? Well that would be telling.
Thursday, 1 December 2011
News, numbers and gossip from Santiago
![]() |
| A passing pilgrim wonders what is being built in the Plaza Qunitana |
The ice rink will be open for two months until 10pm. School children will be admitted for 3.50€ and adults 6.50€.
Record breaking pilgrim numbers
The other big news is that the number of pilgrims continues to break all known records. Over many years the spike in numbers during a Holy Year were never matched in the years in between - when the Feast of St James does not fall on a Sunday. That's been the pattern. Until this year. During the last month for the first time ever the number of pilgrims who arrived during the Holy Year 2004 (179,994) has been exceeded in a normal year. By yesterday 181,789 pilgrims have arrived since 1st January 2011. The full analysis of the numbers comes at the end of this post: see below.
Christmas Lights
The Christmas lights in this Cathedral city where the restrictions of Advent are still observed will be turned on on 17th December.
High Speed Train Link
The AVE service between Ourense - Santiago - A Coruna will open on 10 December. The travel time from Santiago to A Coruna will be cut to 28 minutes. The may help pilgrims who wish to travel in or out of A Coruna airport.
Cirque du Soleil
This show returns to Santiago between 7 - 11 December with 55 artists from 17 different countries. Tickets were sold out with hours of being available.
End of the 800 Anniversary of the Cathedral

Many people here in Galcia believe that the Feast of the Translación is as important, if not more so that the Feast of St James held on 25th July. The Feast of the Translación which commemorates the transportation of St James' body to Galicia is to be held on 30 December and will mark the end of the Anniversary Year. The processions and Mass are spectacular with the armed forces of Spain on parade with senior representatives of the Royal Family and the political classes.
This is one of the ceremonies during the year when the botafumeiro is used for its liturgical purpose at the beginning of the Mass.
Numbers, numbers, numbers
During the month of November 1661 pilgrims arrived in Santiago. The total for the period 1 January to 30 November 2011 is 181,789.
The full analysis follows:
Spain | 96771 (53,23%) |
Germany | 16574 (9,12%) |
Italia | 12119 (6,67%) |
Portugal | 8580 (4,72%) |
France | 8143 (4,48%) |
United States | 3733 (2,05%) |
Ireland | 2655 (1,46%) |
United Kingdom | 2366 (1,30%) |
Holand | 2348 (1,29%) |
Canadá | 2337 (1,29%) |
Brasil | 1951 (1,07%) |
Austria | 1847 (1,02%) |
Poland | 1807 (0,99%) |
Corea | 1692 (0,93%) |
Belgica | 1665 (0,92%) |
Denmark | 1639 (0,90%) |
Australia | 1389 (0,76%) |
Sweden | 1238 (0,68%) |
Swizerland | 1203 (0,66%) |
México | 1180 (0,65%) |
República Checa | 962 (0,53%) |
Norway | 908 (0,50%) |
Japón | 858 (0,47%) |
Hungría | 765 (0,42%) |
Argentina | 705 (0,39%) |
Finlandia | 648 (0,36%) |
Eslovaquia | 568 (0,31%) |
Eslovenia | 547 (0,30%) |
South Africa | 510 (0,28%) |
Venezuela | 431 (0,24%) |
Colombia | 417 (0,23%) |
Russia | 242 (0,13%) |
Nueva Zelanda | 236 (0,13%) |
Rumania | 201 (0,11%) |
Chile | 188 (0,10%) |
Ecuador | 173 (0,10%) |
Uruguay | 167 (0,09%) |
Perú | 147 (0,08%) |
Israel | 130 (0,07%) |
Lituania | 115 (0,06%) |
China | 108 (0,06%) |
Gender | Nº de Peregrinos |
Male | 104874 (57,69%) |
Female | 76915 (42,31%) |
Method of travel | Nº de Peregrinos |
On foot | 151817 (83,51%) |
Bicycle | 29516 (16,24%) |
Horse | 427 (0,23%) |
Wheelchair | 29 (0,02%) |
Motivation | Nº de Peregrinos |
Religious or spiritual reasons | 91614 (50,40%) |
Religious | 78971 (43,44%) |
Not religious or spiritual | 11204 (6,16%) |
Finisterra | 71 (0,04%) |
Grandas de Salime | 69 (0,04%) |
Molinaseca | 67 (0,04%) |
Canfranc | 64 (0,04%) |
Granada | 62 (0,03%) |
Fonsagrada | 61 (0,03%) |
Rábade | 59 (0,03%) |
Italia | 58 (0,03%) |
Cast. la Mancha | 57 (0,03%) |
Com. Valenciana | 57 (0,03%) |
París | 56 (0,03%) |
Castilla La Mancha | 55 (0,03%) |
Castilla la Mancha | 49 (0,03%) |
Tineo | 49 (0,03%) |
Allariz | 48 (0,03%) |
Cadavo | 48 (0,03%) |
La Rioja | 48 (0,03%) |
Malaga | 43 (0,02%) |
Valladolid | 40 (0,02%) |
Huelva | 38 (0,02%) |
Povoa de Varzim | 37 (0,02%) |
Salas | 36 (0,02%) |
San Sebastian | 35 (0,02%) |
Nájera | 34 (0,02%) |
Benavente | 34 (0,02%) |
La Mesa | 32 (0,02%) |
Roma | 32 (0,02%) |
Córdoba | 32 (0,02%) |
Castrojeriz | 30 (0,02%) |
Cataluña | 30 (0,02%) |
Fonfría | 29 (0,02%) |
Badajoz | 28 (0,02%) |
Murcia | 23 (0,01%) |
A Guarda | 23 (0,01%) |
Ponferrada. C.Inv. | 23 (0,01%) |
Resto Galicia | 22 (0,01%) |
Vegadeo | 20 (0,01%) |
Polonia | 17 (0,01%) |
Reino Unido | 16 (0,01%) |
Grado | 14 (0,01%) |
La Rioja | 13 (0,01%) |
Republica Checa | 12 (0,01%) |
Baiona | 12 (0,01%) |
La Bañeza | 12 (0,01%) |
Vilabade | 11 (0,01%) |
Dinamarca | 10 (0,01%) |
San Juan de Ortega | 10 (0,01%) |
A Rúa | 10 (0,01%) |
Luxemburgo | 8 (0,00%) |
Inglaterra | 6 (0,00%) |
Sobrado | 5 (0,00%) |
Leyre | 5 (0,00%) |
Viveiro | 4 (0,00%) |
Monforte de Lemos | 3 (0,00%) |
Ortigueira | 3 (0,00%) |
Hungría | 3 (0,00%) |
Valcarlos | 3 (0,00%) |
Pontedeume | 3 (0,00%) |
Covelo | 2 (0,00%) |
Andorra | 2 (0,00%) |
Finlandia | 2 (0,00%) |
Gonzar | 2 (0,00%) |
United Kingdom | 2 (0,00%) |
Quiroga | 2 (0,00%) |
Egipto | 2 (0,00%) |
Jerusalem | 1 (0,00%) |
Cea | 1 (0,00%) |
Irlanda | 1 (0,00%) |
Mella | 1 (0,00%) |
Artieda | 1 (0,00%) |
Guntín | 1 (0,00%) |
Irlanda | 1 (0,00%) |
Grecia | 1 (0,00%) |
Peñaseita | 1 (0,00%) |
Petín | 1 (0,00%) |
Employment status | Nº de Peregrinos |
Employed | 44080 (24,25%) |
Students | 31634 (17,40%) |
Technicians | 24908 (13,70%) |
Retired | 20309 (11,17%) |
Self employed | 18325 (10,08%) |
Teachers | 13714 (7,54%) |
Civil servants | 9345 (5,14%) |
Manual workers | 6300 (3,47%) |
Unemployed | 4091 (2,25%) |
Housewives | 3977 (2,19%) |
Artists | 1522 (0,84%) |
Executives | 1379 (0,76%) |
Priests | 815 (0,45%) |
Farmworkers | 570 (0,31%) |
Religious | 441 (0,24%) |
Sailors | 226 (0,12%) |
Sportspeople | 113 (0,06%) |
Oikoten | 40 (0,02%) |
Ages | Nº de Peregrinos |
30 - 60 | 104631 (57,56%) |
< 30 | 51732 (28,46%) |
> 60 | 25426 (13,99%) |
Routes travelled | Nº de Peregrinos |
Frances-Camino de | 131696 (72,44%) |
Portugues-Camino | 21850 (12,02%) |
Norte-Camino de | 11846 (6,52%) |
Via de la Plata | 7953 (4,37%) |
Primitivo-Camino | 5177 (2,85%) |
Ingles-Camino | 2678 (1,47%) |
Otros caminos | 388 (0,21%) |
Muxia-Finisterre | 201 (0,11%) |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)


































