The Camino – a life affirming experience

Johnnie Walker hard at work

I’m very lucky. I love working with pilgrims here in Santiago, hearing their stories and seeing their joy on arrival. I also like writing guides to some of the shorter routes such as the Camino Inglés. Many pilgrims send me information for the guides which helps keep them up to date for other pilgrims. They also write about the things which happen to them along the way. Here is a small selection. I’ve edited some bits and removed the names. I find them inspiring. I hope you do too:

Dear John,

A few weeks ago already since I finished the Ingles -- I'm trying to keep it all fresh!
I'm glad I got to meet you and talk briefly when I got my Compostela.  The group at the office, by the way, seemed particularly warm and friendly.  I didn't realize at the time that I must have hit the first group of Amigos, but it was lovely to be greeted in such a nice way.  Please pass along my thanks.Before I forget, I have a few little notes on the route that may be useful.

The promenade leading to the albergue at Neda

I stayed in Ferrol at El Cairo.  The owners were quiet but friendly.  Eating out alone in Spain can be uncomfortable sometimes, but I had a good supper at the pizzaria next door and felt quite comfortable.

The promenade route into Neda seems to split into several paths, and somehow I missed the waymarks leading to the pedestrian bridge.  

The hospitaleiro at Pontedeume albergue was a friendly and helpful fellow, and wouldn't even let me make a donation.  He says he's there at 7:30 til 9:30 to let people in.  

The next day was a hungry one (actually it was cold, wet, hungry, and exhausting, but thanks to the beautiful camino and some lovely and incredibly fun fellow peregrinos, it was a fabulous day overall).  Bar Julia was open for coffee but didn't have any food.

Carmen and Benino (hospitaleros in Hospital de Bruma) were terrific, and made sure I got fed. 

Speaking of food, Bar Cruzeiro was closed the next day.  I got coffee at Bar Novo, and should have had the foresight to ask if they could make me a bocadillo.  But what a treat at Hostal Miraz!  I want to eat there everyday. The mass times in Sigueiro have changed from what is in the guide.  I arrived when Mass was almost over, and thus was a little sheepish asking for a sello, but they could not have been more welcoming.

I got a little confused getting into Santiago.  I couldn't find the waymark across from the Bar Garcia Lorca, and turned to the left instead of crossing into the park with the arches.  I was rescued by a woman in a highrise shouting at me from her window and waving her hands in the opposite direction.  

This was just one of so many times on this little camino that kind strangers went out of their way to help me out.  I have rarely in my life felt so blessed as I did in those five days.  Thanks again for all of your help with the guide and your encouragement.  
Buen camino, with best wishes,A pilgrim

View from the Camino outside of Ferrol 

Dear John

Here are some notes from our recent Camino...

...When we reached this point we were absolutely drenched and dripping having walked for a couple of hours in persistent rain and hail. As we really only wanted some respite from the rain and a coffee we decided to try the Café Vilar a few doors up as it did look a bit more inviting and does have a pilgrim sign outside. I ordered and paid for our coffees and took the opportunity to get our passports stamped before taking our coffees to a table out of the way. I know I felt thoroughly wet and miserable and so did my friend as we hunched over our drinks. After a few minutes we heard a voice behind us in broken English saying “you like” we turned round and the lady behind the bar had brought each of a plate of bacon and egg on toast. It was such a kind gesture and never has bacon and egg tasted so good. It really lifted our spirits and amazingly once we’d left the bar, the weather improved for a couple of hours and we were able to press on. Earlier in the week we had been told that originally pilgrims had the right to ask the locals for food and drink and they had to supply it. I had not expected that in the 21st century we would still be on the receiving end of such kindness, especially unasked for. I know we were probably out of season, and it wouldn’t happen as a matter of course, I also suspect that as we are two ladies of a certain age (I’m 54 and my friend is 67) we probably elicit a different response than others might but I will always remember that gesture.

Walking the Camino was an experience I know we’ll talk about for many years. It is definitely an achievement that we’re proud of, it was certainly a hard earned Compostella for us. However, more than that it was also a reminder of the general goodness of people. We met so many friendly people along our way, they filled us up with water; showed us the way when we looked lost (even physically walking with us to show us on two occasions); took care of the dog that followed us for 2kms; fed us when we looked in need; chatted to us because they wanted to practice their English (even if we were sitting at the side of road replacing plasters and changing socks) offered translations when our Spanish fell as short as the waiters English; and generally wished us a buen viaje. 

Best wishes

Two peregrinas

My favourite spot for lunch on the Camino Ingles

Hola John

Just wanted to say thanks so much for the guide - completely invaluable on my recent walk (I don't know how people manage it using the waymarks alone!). In fact my guide came in very handy for several other guideless pilgrims when the waymarks seemed to peter out as the route enters the outskirts of Santiago by the café bar Poligono!  There was only one bit where I managed to get lost through the first forested path between Poulo and Segueiro where I must have missed the waymark after the kerb of granite blocks - I kept going in what I hoped was vaguely the right direction and ended up in an unmarked (and apparently uninhabited!) hamlet where a kindly farmer on a tractor got me back on the right path through a series of hand signals (my phrasebook Spanish improved infinitely over the week!). Maybe it was the scorching sun, or maybe it was having already walked several km out of my way that day, but I have to say, that long straight forested section that follows shortly after feels a lot longer than 4 km!
 
I also met some wonderful people along the way, which helped alleviate my aching feet and back. At the end of the first day, feeling a bit bedraggled and despondent having realised that I had packed way too much stuff and my feet were already hurting(!), I asked some people outside the cafe bar by the O Burro Bridge for directions to the hotel (didn't see the big sign behind me!) and they took me in, bought me a beer, ran me a bath and cooked me tea! They also pointed out a shortcut avoiding Cambre taking the river path opposite the hotel and turning right till you reach the waymarked path shortly after the cafe bar Meson Vasco. I must have still been looking a bit lost and forlorn the next day though as a friendly cyclist on his way back to Carral walked me the whole of the second leg of my journey and also insisted on cooking me lunch at the end! And that was apart from the other pilgrims (Spanish and English) whom I had the pleasure of encountering along the way.
 
All in all a wonderfully life-affirming experience!
 
Many thanks again!
 
A pilgrim

Becoming a pilgrim...and there's more

At the Practical Pilgrims’ Day I wanted to demonstrate that there are many routes to Santiago. I believe there is one for everyone! Some are long such as the Camino Francés or the Via de la Plata and some are short like the Caminos Inglés or Portugués.I explained that when I first walked the Camino Inglés I fell in love with this little route.

Traditionally the medieval pilgrims from Northern Europe arrived by ship in A Coruña on the North West Coast of Spain and made the short three day, 75 km, journey on foot to Santiago. In modern times it was recognised that walking less than 100 kms would not qualify pilgrims for a Compostela and therefore a route from Ferrol was devised. This route is approximately 110kms and takes 5 days to walk. The assumption is that not all medieval pilgrims sailed into A Coruña and some must have disembarked at other ports such as Ferrol. Both arms of the route meet at Hospital de Bruma which as the name implies was a hospital for pilgrims in the middle ages.

This route reveals a different aspect of Spain and has quite a different personality from other inland routes such as the Camino Francés. A Coruna is a seaside town with a large harbour. The promenade stretches for some 9 kms. The beach is huge and many Spaniards go there on holiday. You will only rarely hear an English voice in the many roadside cafes that serve fresh seafood caught that morning. Ferrol on the other hand is a still a working port with a large base for the Spanish navy. It was where Franco was born.

Ferrol and A Coruña are very easily accessible by bus from Santiago and there are direct flights from London to A Coruña. There is a very good bus service between A Coruña and Ferrol. The Camino Inglés is an ideal route for someone wanting to spend 5 days walking and 2days in Santiago or for a two week trip the Camino Inglés plus the route to Finisterre/Muxía.

Have a look at the wonderful sea views and pastoral scenes of the Camino Inglés.

New approaches to the Camino Inglés

New possible stages on the Camino Inglés

I’m just back from walking this delightful route from Ferrol again. More of that later!

Before I went I got a couple of e mails from people asking about the stages. The route is very beautiful with great scenery but it is demanding in parts. People are particularly apprehensive about the long stage from Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma/Meson do Vento of 29/31kms – particularly in light of the 3 kms elevation of some 0.4 kms 12 kms from Bruma.

Whilst this stage is fine for strong walkers I’ve been up that hill myself a few times now and it is steep!

But now there are more options available to pilgrims on this route – with more planned.

Here is the news:

Existing suggested stages:

Ferrol – Pontedeume 25 kms
Pontedeume – Betanzos 20 kms
Betanzos – Hospital de Bruma 29 kms
Hospital de Bruma – Sigüeiro 24 kms
Sigüeiro – Santiago de Compostela 16 kms


There are albergues in Neda, Miño and Hospital de Bruma.

For those wishing to use albergues:

Ferrol – Neda 11kms
Neda – Miño 27 kms
Miño – Hospital de Bruma 38 kms


New albergues planned:

Betanzos – 40 places – 1 Rua Cervantes in the town centre was due to open this year – will now open for the Holy Year 2010.

Sigüeiro – Money has been allocated and a site identified next to the swimming pool on the route into Sigüeiro – not due to open until the Holy Year 2010

New possible stage:

The family who own the O Meson Novo Pension in Meson do Vento have been welcoming pilgrims occasionally for 34 years.



They know the route is growing in popularity. Therefore they are now providing a new service:

They will pick up pilgrims at an agreed point – say the Bar Julia - 18kms from Betanzos and just before “the hill”. They will transport them to their pension if accommodation is booked for 18 Euros per person and will return them to the pick up point next day. Transport is free of charge.

The parents worked for 10 years in Leeds in England and their English is very good. Antonio their son who will run the taxi service undertands English very well.

Telephone

981 692 776
981 696008

Mobile number for Antonio – 678 585 431

E mail: antonio@mesonnovo.com or mesonnovo@messonovo.com

There are also two new Casas Rurales which have opened along the route:

The Dona Maria in Buscas – 20 kms from the Bar Julia opposite the Bar Novo and on the route. (Double from 60 Euros – www.casadonamaria.es)

The Antón Veiras – in O Outeiro – 27.5 kms from the Bar Julia on the route (981 682 303. Doubles 60 Euros)

These are expensive options for pilgrims and Antonio from the Pension O Meson Novo is offering a fully flexible service therefore pilgrims could base themselves in Meson do Vento for 2 nights being picked up at As Buscas or O Outeiro on the second evening to sleep ion Meson do Vento being returned there the next morning to go forward to Santiago.

Please note that the Bar Julia is only open Monday – Friday by arrangement with groups booking lunch.

I have a few other updates to make to the guide which will appear shortly.